Ramey's 2008 Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard is gorgeous. It has also aged impeccably. Orange confit, crème brûlée, butter, smoke and hazelnut are finely knit in a super-expressive Chardonnay that hits all the right notes. The 2008 will drink well for at least another few years. Stylistically, the 2008 Ritchie belongs to an era when Ramey favored a slightly riper and more new-oak-shaped style than he does today.