This lush-textured white comes from 42-year-old vines grown on the gravelly, sandy Goldridge loam common to great vineyards in Russian River. Harvest was early, but smaller grapes concentrated the flavours. Stylistically, the wine harks back to the full-on seduction of classic California Chardonnay, but it also has lift, tang and the structure to age well. The spicy, pineappley fruit marries well with 21% new oak, which lends the wine depth and complexity.