The leader of the Ramey bunch in this Issue features the deep, outgoing, pulpy yet still developing fruit that is so typical of the best from the winery. Clearly focused on Pippin apple's tart and juicy characteristics and enriched by hints of toast, creme brulee and a wisp of pineapple, this balanced, solidly constructed effort can be served today alongside most white-fleshed fishes now or over the next several years.