2012 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley
Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wine
This rich, carefully proportioned young wine shows many of the same pieces and very nearly the same sense of admirable depth of its pricier, single-site mates, and it does so in a slightly more open manner. It is full and firm in feel with plenty of balancing acidity showing up after its initially rounded beginnings, and it earns high marks, indeed, for its layering, fruity continuity and fine length. We would not be hasty about pulling its cork even if it is a little more forward than its decidedly age-worthy siblings, but, whether held for a bit or served up sooner with the likes of grilled salmon, it is a complete Chardonnay that convincingly hits all of the right marks.