When it is right, Chardonnay from Lee Hudson's vineyard can rank with the very best in the state, and this latest working from David Ramey is right in so many ways. It is a very full and yet very well-balanced wine whose immense fruit and flamboyant oak combine for show-stopping richness, but it is its impeccable, acid-firmed structure that separates it from a good many other very rich Chardonnays and earns it this month's top honors. Its combination of complexity, vitality and fruity depth is bound to tempt early drinking, but collectors be warned, it will only get better with age.