Showing strong kinship with its partner from the Hyde Vineyard, Ramey's working of Hudson fruit is, if anything, a touch tighter and firmer yet. Its leaner stance nonetheless in no way precludes it from being wonderfully fruity, and its brisk mix of lemons, green apples and wet stones makes for a most compelling wine all the same. It too is one for setting aside as it will surely unfold over time, but, if it wants age before showing its best, it is still easy to like now especially when lightly sauced shellfish is on the menu.