2003 Chardonnay, Hyde Vineyard, Napa-Carneros
Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wine
March 1, 2006
This riveting and wholly fascinating Chardonnay is among the deepest, most generously fruited to be had from the vintage, and its themes of perfectly measured, optimally ripe, lemon-kissed apples are overlain by wonderfully rich oak and a light note of lees. It is already complex, but it shows the keen composition and impeccable balance to keep it perking for a half-decade or more, and it strikes us that collectors with an eye for the best to be had would be well advised to set a few bottles aside for at least a two or three years.