This riveting and wholly fascinating Chardonnay is among the deepest, most generously fruited to be had from the vintage, and its themes of perfectly measured, optimally ripe, lemon-kissed apples are overlain by wonderfully rich oak and a light note of lees. It is already complex, but it shows the keen composition and impeccable balance to keep it perking for a half-decade or more, and it strikes us that collectors with an eye for the best to be had would be well advised to set a few bottles aside for at least a two or three years.