While among the most involving and deepest offerings to be found in this survey, this exceptionally well-balanced bottling finds a bit more brightness and buoyancy than most wines of its weight and range manage to muster. It is loaded with fruit and generously oaked, and it stays both rich and fairly light on its feet through to its very long, impressively layered finish. As wholly seductive as it is right now, it can only get better with age, and we look forward to positive growth for another three or four years.