Although its generous aromas of toast, lees, sweet butter and very ripe apples convey a real impression of substance and size, this working turns out to be surprisingly light on its feet with a bright, citrusy trim to its very lively, fresh fruit flavors, while oak provides plenty of richness. Much in the manner of its Sonoma Coast counterpart below, it has an eye to both substance and energy, and there is little question that it is on a two-or-three-year track to appreciable growth.