The new Ramy Chardonnays are very much peas in a pod, and, as this partiular bottling attests, picking a favorite is a happy, if next-to-impossible task.  It follows the lead of its siblings in being very deep and a little reserved with suggestions of sweet butter, vanilla, minersla and taost set to the side of its still-nervy young fruit.  It is fairly full and slightly supple to start and grows gradually firmer and firmer as it goes, but its sense of solidity and central extract is never lessened, and, at least for the moment and by the smallest degree, it shows a soupcon more polish than any of its equally well-endowed mate.