Both optimally ripened and youthfully tight with an attractive overlay of creamy oak to its ample, mildly peppery, blackberry fruit, Ramey’s Sonoma Coast bottling may be a bit backward at the moment but conveys a fine sense of stuffing and substance. Its early suppleness is countered by a fairly full dose of tannin, yet its fruit never falters or dries. Age is demanded rather than simply advised, and its recommendation is conditional on a good five years of patience.