2012 Syrah, Rodgers Creek Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wine
12% Viognier. Very much cast in the rich Ramey style and a bit more explicit than it mates in terms of its ready ripeness, this brash, big-bodied offering manages to keep Syrah in its sights even as it runs up against tannin and heat. It is more concerned with raw power than grace and is likely to displease those who embrace a leaner, cool-climate model as the right way to go, but its sheer richness and depth cannot be ignored, and its latter-palate turn to tightness bodes well for aging. Pour it in four or five years if you will, but know that it looks sure to grow for a good many more.