Arguably the biggest and most dramatic of all the new Ramey offerings, and a wine that is at one and the same time deeply fruited and flamboyantly oaked, this head-turning effort shows next to nothing in the way of finesse, at least not at present. It is, however, enormously potent, solidly structured and very much built for aging, and it has every chance to earn higher marks yet once its momentary distractions of youthful coarseness have passed.