The cool climes of Russian River are reflected in the leaner and slightly angular aspects of this nervy young Chardonnay, but for all of its briskness, the wine musters a fair showing of relatively deep fruit, and, in the end, its sins seem no more than those of extreme youth. Its flashes of sweet apples and oak are under-scored by a long line of firm acid, yet its course is set first and foremost by persistent fruit, and it is all but guaranteed to gain further beauty with age.