Something of a cross between the other offerings from Ramey, this well-fruited, fairly juicy effort is a bit more measured than the Ritchie while having a fair bit of the layering of the Hudson. If it falls back at all, it is due to the less forceful nature of its personality, yet to call it anything but deep and brilliantly executed is to take too much away from it. It earns both its own round of applause and place in the cellar.