David Ramey employed native yeasts to ferment the Ramey Wine Cellars Chardonnay 2015, Russian River Valley. The wine aged 12 months in French oak, 21 percent new barrels, and went through full malolactic. Though made in a bold, upfront fashion, this chardonnay is intriguing complex and thoughtfully rendered. The color is bright, medium gold; classic notes of pineapple and grapefruit are permeated by hints of cloves and quince and lightly buttered cinnamon toast; a few minutes in the glass bring in a touch of nutmeg, with its slightly astringent woodsy quality. A fairly dense and luscious texture is cut by chiming acidity and a just sufficient limestone element, all centered on ripe citrus and stone-fruit flavors; the finish brings in a bit of grapefruit pith. 14.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2021 to ’23. Excellent. About $42.