The 2002 Diamond Mountain District Young Vines Proprietary Red is a powerhouse, but also extraordinarily elegant and well-delineated. Aromas of smoke, creosote, chocolate, espresso roast, cedar, tobacco, and black fruits galore cascade from the glass of this full-bodied, concentrated, powerful 2002. Still unevolved and primary, this knock-out offering should be more exuberant and forward than the 2001, but qualitatively its equivalent. It will have a good upside of 15 or more years. Get on the bandwagon as David Ramey is on top of his game.

The dense purple-tinged 2002 Diamond Mountain District Young Vines offers rich, sumptuous aromas of burning embers, smoke, blackberries, currants, and a gravel-like hot rock component interwoven with licorice and earth. Supple-textured and full-bodied, with more flamboyance and accessibility than the more muscular 2001, it will drink well for 8-14 years.

Deep ruby. Big, rich nose combines chocolate, game and roasted herbs. Deep and liqueur-like, with extravagant chocolate and spice flavors. Broad and plush but classically dry. Finishes with suave, building tannins and excellent spine.

Deep, saturated ruby-red. Roasted plum, black raspberry, dark chocolate, tar, licorice and meat on the nose; simultaneously shows a port-like character and a medicinal austerity. Lusher and sweeter than the Claret, with palate-coating flavors of blackberry, blueberry and truffle. "A wine of irrational exuberance," notes Ramey. Finishes very long, with mouthcoating tannins and a ripeness verging on roasted.

Smooth, rich and fleshy, this is a notably complex and concentrated youngster, with a tasty core of ripe currant, black cherry, cedar, olive and sage notes that are well-focused, ending with a complex aftertaste. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Best from 2006 through 2012. 1,330 cases made.