There are less than 200 cases of the 2004 Syrah, which is showing better than last year. Meaty, blackberry, and cassis notes interwoven with some smoke and underbrush arise from this inky purple-colored wine. It is peppery, full-bodied, with hints of tapenade and spice. It is very French, but the ripeness is clearly Californian. This wine should drink well for 7-8 years.

($50; Ramey's first syrah comes from a vineyard in the northwest corner of the Carneros appellation; includes 5% co-fermented viognier) Saturated ruby. Varietally accurate aromas of dark raspberry, chocolate, smoked meat and brown spices. Dense, big and rich if a bit youthfully unrefined. Highly concentrated berry flavors complicated by brown spices and suggestions of coffee and chocolate liqueur. Finishes with big, broad tannins. A very strong first effort. 90 points