The 2009 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard impresses for its focus and nuance. Layers of chiseled, beautifully delineated fruit emerge from this sculpted Chardonnay. The Hudson is about subtlety first and foremost. Ripe apricots, freshly cut flowers, pastry, lemon, crushed rocks and French oak inform the pure, creamy finish. Drink: 2013-2019.

Vivid yellow-gold. More powerful and extroverted than the Hyde bottling, offering aromas and flavors of poached pear, peach pit, honey and fig, along with a spicy overtone; a smoky iodine nuance comes up with air, along with a floral quality that carries onto the palate. Closes with impressive energy and breadth, leaving smoke and mineral notes behind.

This white delivers a laser beam of zesty lemon, blossom and green app'

The Hudson bottling is terrific, tasting like a fine grand cru white Burgundy. It is full and crisp on the palate, with excellent depth and a bit more oak (in terms of flavor perception). Very persistent finish, tasting of lemon peel, lime, pineapple, and roasted nut.

Arguably the biggest and most dramatic of all the new Ramey offerings, and a wine that is at one and the same time deeply fruited and flamboyantly oaked, this head-turning effort shows next to nothing in the way of finesse, at least not at present. It is, however, enormously potent, solidly structured and very much built for aging, and it has every chance to earn higher marks yet once its momentary distractions of youthful coarseness have passed.