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The Wine Advocate, February 2010, Issue 187 A multi-tasker, David Ramey’s Healdsburg operation garnered lavish reviews for his Cabernet Sauvignons in issue #186. He also demonstrates a Midas touch with Chardonnay, while continuing to fine tune his Syrah portfolio. In addition, Ramey’s consulting business appears to be growing by leaps and bounds, and he has been a major factor in turning around the quality of a number of wineries. The 2007 Ramey Chardonnays are all strong efforts, including the three generic offerings from the Sonoma Coast, Russian River, and Carneros, and his single vineyard efforts from the Hudson, Hyde, and Ritchie vineyards. The medium-bodied 2007 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast (89) exhibits crisp, fresh, mineral-laced white peach and citrus characteristics along with zesty acidity and an attractive exuberant style. This graceful Chardonnay can be enjoyed over the next several years. More tropical fruit and honeysuckle notes are found in the 2007 Chardonnay Russian River (90). Good underlying acidity buttresses the wine’s considerable fruit and body, resulting in a vivacious mouthfeel as well as a chalky minerality. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. My favorite of the generic series is the 2007 Chardonnay Carneros (91). Vibrant acidity and minerality (characteristics of the vintage) are present in this beautifully fruity effort, as well as notes of smoky hazelnuts, buttered citrus, and loads of freshness and definition. It should drink nicely for three years. The single vineyard Chardonnays are all superb. The 2007 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard’s (94) light gold color is followed by sumptuous aromas of buttered citrus, a distinctive spicy apple note, quince, hazelnut, and subtle oak. The wine is rich and full-bodied with admirable purity and length. Enjoy it over the next 3-4 years. The brilliant 2007 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard (94) reveals lots of nectarine, honeysuckle, orange blossom, and citrus oil notes intertwined with good acidity, considerable minerality, and a full-bodied, fresh finish with no evidence of wood. The most structured and backward is the 2007 Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard (93), which comes across as slightly tannic. Full-bodied with an earthy, rich minerality, fresh, lively poached pear, honeysuckle, and subtle smoke and tropical fruit notes, this well delineated Chardonnay reveals laser-like clarity. It will drink well for 5+ years. All of the single vineyard Chardonnays are aged in two-thirds new French oak, and the generic offerings see one-third new French oak. The 2007 Syrah Sonoma Coast (93), which is co-fermented with 7% Viognier, boasts huge aromatics of tapenade, bacon fat, pepper, black currants, and hints of lychee nuts and marmalade (no doubt from the Viognier). Inky/purple-colored, dense, full-bodied, and impressive, this is a top-flight Syrah that should drink beautifully for a decade. Even better is the still unbottled 2007 Syrah Rodger’s Creek Vineyard (94-96) (which includes 6% Viognier). Dark blue/purple-hued, it offers up aromas of camphor, asphalt, roasted meats, black olives, blackberries, and blueberries. Spicy and earthy with a distinctive Hermitage-like terroir quality, it is an impressively built, structured, and intense beauty that should provide immense pleasure for ten or more years. It’s sad that so few consumers are paying attention to these super California Syrah’s. The 2008 barrel samples I saw were slightly more down-sized than the 2007’s, which is not unexpected. These potentially outstanding wines were displaying fewer differences in style than I might expect. The 2008 Syrah Sonoma Coast ((88-90) exhibits an inky/purple color, plenty of power and richness along with copious black fruits and hints of tar, smoke, earth, and beefy notes. The 2008 Syrah Rodger’s Creek Vineyard (89-91+) has not yet leaped ahead of its sibling. At present, it is monolithic, dense, and concentrated, but is not revealing as much personality as it will display in another year. Both 2008’s will undoubtedly be more fruit-forward and faster evolving than the 2007’s. The Wine Advocate, December 2009, Issue 186 All of David Ramey’s Sonoma Coast, Russian River, and Carneros wines will be reviewed in the February, 2010 issue along with all the other non-Napa Valley wines. There are 4,800 cases of the 2007 Claret (91), which shrewd consumers should be seeking out. A blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. It exhibits smoky, licorice, and black currant aromas, suave, velvety, full-bodied flavors, admirable purity and depth, and delicious fruit, all offered in a hedonistic, satisfying style. A top bargain for a Napa Valley Cabernet, it should drink well for a decade or more. The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa (93) includes a whopping percentage of fruit from the excellent Larkmead Vineyard. It possesses classic notes of licorice, graphite, and crème de cassis intermixed with notions of tobacco leaf and oak. Rich, full-bodied, and deep, with tremendous length, and an undeniable freshness and minerality that seem to be characteristics of this vintage, it should evolve for 15-20 years. From Diamond Mountain the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Annum (95+) possesses a dense purple color, full-bodied power, and lots of scorched earth and loamy soil notes intermixed with smoked herbs, crème de cassis, and blackberries. This rich, but backward Cabernet Sauvignon needs 4-5 years of cellaring, and should keep for 25+. Ramey’s sensational 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Pedregal (97+) is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Petit Verdot. Notions of blueberry pie, charcoal, camphor, blackberry, cassis, and smoky oak are followed by a wine with sizeable tannins as well as structure. The extravagant fruit, richness, and intensity result in a remarkable, young Cabernet Sauvignon from one of Napa’s finest areas, the Oakville Corridor. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2035. While well-made, the 2008’s are more restrained, monolithic, and elegant than their older siblings. The 2008 Claret (87-89), although less dense than the 2007, is a very good example of a reasonably priced Cabernet Sauvignon-based Napa wine. The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa (88-91) is more narrowly constructed than the brilliant 2007, offering plenty of chocolate, smoke, creosote, and black currant flavors. I had some reservations about the sharp, hard, excessive tannins in the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Annum (89-91+?), but I think they will have become more manageable when I taste this wine next year. Certainly the wine is dense and rich. Another superstar in the making is the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Pedregal (91-94) (a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Petit Verdot). The finest of these 2008’s, it reveals greater richness, texture, length, and volume than its siblings as well as a singular purity and character. This high-class Cabernet should drink well for two decades or more. The Wine Advocate, December 2008, Issue 180, page 57 David Ramey’s Healdsburg operation is becoming bigger and bigger, as evidenced by his 60,000-case production [sic] (actual production 35,000 cases) in both 2006 and 2007. However, quality continues to be exciting, offering a broad array of Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons, and more recently, a handful of Syrahs. The entry level Chardonnays include three generic appellations, Carneros, Russian River, and Sonoma Coast. All three need to be consumed sooner rather than later. The crisp, elegant, medium-bodied 2006 Chardonnay Carneros (88) reveals hazelnut and tropical fruit characteristics. The 2006 Chardonnay Russian River (87) displays more tart acidity as well as a monolithic personality, not the fruit intensity of the Carneros, and a medium-bodied finish with no evidence of rot or botrytis (a problem in this area in 2006). More Chablis-like with a chalky minerality and crisp white citrus and white currant aromas and flavors is the elegant, medium-bodied 2006 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast (88). It should drink well for 2-3 years. The three single vineyard Chardonnays are all from top sites, the Hudson and Hyde vineyards in Carneros, and the Russian River’s Ritchie Vineyard. Production is much smaller for these cuvees, from just under 1,400 cases for the Hudson to over 2,500 cases for the Hyde. The 2006 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard (91) exhibits aromas of green apples, quince, white currants, and honeyed citrus in an impressive, medium to full-bodied style with beautiful fruit, a subtle dosage of wood, and a heady finish. Drink it over the next several years. My favorite of this trio is the 2006 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard (93). It reveals gorgeous acidity, more tropical fruit, nectarine, and orange blossom characteristics, a greenish hue to its color (always a good sign), and long, full-bodied flavors. More lemon oil, hazelnut, and smoke are present in the 2006 Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard (91). Full-bodied, fresh, and lively, it is an outstanding effort. These three single vineyard efforts are very successful Chardonnays for this vintage. While not at the quality level of the 2005s, 2004s, and perhaps the 2007s, they are noteworthy successes in this challenging year. The dense opaque purple-hued 2006 Syrah Rodger’s Creek Vineyard (92) offers aromas of melted chocolate, ground pepper, exotic peach and lychee nuts (5% Viognier is co-fermented), and an earthy, blackberry, smoky mid-palate as well as finish. Enjoy this superb Syrah over the next decade. Slightly better is the 2006 Syrah Shanel Vineyard (93). It includes 3% Viognier, but it is less noticeable at this stage. An opaque purple color is followed by enormous quantities of blackberries intermixed with tapenade, acacia flowers, and truffles. Full-bodied, meaty, and dense, it cuts an even broader mouthfeel than its sibling. It, too, can be drunk over the next decade. The 2006 Claret (88) has turned out to be less impressive than I initially believed. Made in an up-front, fruity style, it possesses a dark ruby/purple color, notes of licorice, spice box, roasted herbs, and red as well as black currants. This soft red is good to excellent, but not as stunning as I had hoped. The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (90) is a bigger, deeper effort revealing austere tannins in the finish, but also plenty of chocolaty, black currant fruit intermixed with licorice, roasted herbs, and underbrush. It has shut down in bottle, and requires another year or so to open. Although backward, the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Larkmead Vineyard (92+) (3,820 cases) is extremely promising. Its inky/ruby/purple color is followed by a gorgeous perfume of smoke herbs, graphite, crème de cassis, coffee beans, and toasty oak. With sensational fruit on the attack and mid-palate, and a finish filled with power, glycerin, depth, and impressive structure, this 2006 will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age, and should evolve for two decades or more. The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Annum (93) (96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% mixed Bordeaux varietals) exhibits aromas of chocolate, cassis, incense, and flowers as well as a distinctive minerality/earthiness, full-bodied power, and a dense, layered mouthfeel. It should easily keep for 25+ years. Ramey has discovered a fabulous source in the Oakville Corridor, and the sensational 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Pedregal Vineyard (95+) (sadly, only 310 cases produced) is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Petit Verdot. Inky purple to the rim, with sweet crème de cassis, roasted meat, and blackberry fruit notes, juicy succulence on the attack, full-bodied power, plenty of glycerin, sensational purity, and a hint of bouquet garni, this is an enormously endowed Cabernet Sauvignon that builds incrementally on the palate, finishing with a blast of power and sweet tannin. Give it 4-5 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 25+ years. 2007 is a superb vintage for David Ramey as well as for other North Coast producers. Ramey’s 2007 Syrah Shanel Vineyard (94-96), which includes 7% Viognier, possesses an explosive bouquet of blackberries, bacon fat, lychee nuts, and honeysuckle. The complex, Côte Rôtie-like aromatics are followed by a meaty, full-bodied wine with silky tannins, enormous purity and depth, and stunning overall complexity and richness. This superb effort may turn out to be Ramey’s finest Syrah to date. The 2007 Syrah Rodger’s Creek Vineyard (92-94) (4% Viognier is co-fermented with 96% Syrah) is a bigger, thicker wine with additional notes of scorched earth, beef blood, blackberries, and new saddle leather. It is a dense, full-bodied, muscular, chewy, powerful Syrah that will need some time in the bottle as opposed to the silky, elegant Shanel Vineyard offering. The 2007 Claret (89-91) is a softer version of the more structured, backward 2006. Its deep ruby/purple hue is followed by aromas of sweet crème de cassis, camphor, and spice box. Already seductive, it will be delicious when released, yet capable of lasting 7-10 years. Terrific ripeness and fragrance along with silky tannins and an undeniable opulence characterize the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (90-93), which comes from six different sources in Napa. A blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% mixed Bordeaux varietals, and 2% Syrah, this good value will drink well for 15+ years. The three single vineyard Cabernets are all superb. The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Larkmead Vineyard (93-95+) is a perfect California imitation of a classified growth Pauillac. Crème de cassis, licorice, unsmoked cigar tobacco, lead pencil shavings, black currants, earth, and bay leaf characteristics, but not a hint of oak, emerge from this full-bodied, rich, velvety-textured, sumptuous wine. It should drink fabulously well upon release, and continue to evolve for two decades or more. More tannic and backward, but displaying sensational fruit, concentration, and purity, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Annum (93-95) boasts an inky/purple color as well as abundant notes of burning embers/scorched earth, and hints of truffles, new saddle leather, and meat juices. It seems to be more structured than the Larkmead, but the finish is velvety, so I suspect this 2007 will be approachable in its youth. The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Pedregal Vineyard (96-100) is one of those “whoop de do” wines displaying extraordinary intensity, a velvety texture, and an enormous fragrance of graphite, blackberries, cassis, spring flowers, and damp earth. A cascade of sensational black fruits, licorice, and smoke coats the palate with no hard edges. The finish lasts 50+ seconds. This 900-case blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Petit Verdot is a blockbuster from one of the great Napa Valley terroirs, the Oakville Corridor. It can be drunk over the next 25+ years. Tel. (707) 433-0870; Fax (707) 433-0871 The Wine Advocate, December 2007, Issue 174, pages 50-51 One of Northern California’s most successful winemakers/consultants, David Ramey’s personal winery continues to go from strength to strength. Ramey has had the best of both worlds, working in Bordeaux for the Moueix family, and in California at Dominus, Chalk Hill, and Rudd Estate. Ramey has two hierarchies of Chardonnays, his generic appellations as well as his single vineyard cuvées. The depth and overall quality of the 2005 Chardonnays are remarkably impressive. The 2005 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast (91) reveals aromas of lemon custard and orange blossoms presented in a medium to full-bodied, elegant, pure style with excellent underlying acidity. Delicious, opulent, tropical fruit, buttered citrus, and background spicy oak are found in the crisp, fresh, medium to full-bodied 2005 Chardonnay Russian River (92). It should drink nicely for 2-3 years. The 2005 Chardonnay Los Carneros (91) exhibits scents of lemon and lime oil intermixed with orange blossom, quince, and white currant-like notes. Medium to full-bodied with good acidity providing freshness and vibrancy, it will provide plenty of pleasure over the next 2-3 years. A stunning effort, the 2005 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard (95) boasts great intensity along with huge tropical fruit notes interwoven with notions of spring flowers, orange marmalade, white peaches, and steely minerals. Its abundant fruit conceals any evidence of wood. Well-delineated, with outstanding acidity as well as a layered, sumptuous finish, it should age nicely for 4-5 years, possibly longer. Offering copious amounts of orange marmalade, smoky hazelnuts, and tropical fruits, the full-bodied, rich 2005 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard (94) is on a faster evolutionary track than the Hyde Vineyard. Drink the Hudson cuvée over the next 2-3 years. The 2005 Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard (95) shows crushed rock, white currant, citrus oil, pineapple, peach, and apricot characteristics. Long, rich, and deep with strong acidity, it should be consumed over the next 4-5 years. It’s sad to see that many of the stunning Syrah’s being made in California are being overlooked in favor of the far too many thin, washed-out “Sideways” Pinot Noirs emerging from that state. That should soon change as smart consumers cannot continue to ignore the quality of the Syrahs versus the overall mediocrity of so many over-priced, insipid Pinots. Ramey’s top-notch Syrahs include the deep purple-hued 2005 Syrah Sonoma Coast (93), which offers notes of camphor, tapenade, blackberries, and currants. Medium to full-bodied with an incredibly long finish, it should provide plenty of pleasure over the next 7-10 years The 2005 Syrah Rodger’s Creek Vineyard (94) boasts a black/purple color as well as abundant notes of crushed pepper, incense, Chinese black tea, plums, tapenade, and blackberries. It reminds me of a 2003 Clape Cornas from the Rhone Valley. Huge, tannic, and promising, it will drink well for 8-12 years. The 2006 Syrahs are more fruit-forward. The 2006 Syrah Sonoma Coast (90-92) exhibits sumptuous blackberry fruit intermixed with olive, pepper, acacia flower, and roasted meat notes. Dense, opulent, and deep, this amazing effort should drink well for 8-10 years. The 2006 Syrah Rodger’s Creek Vineyard (90-93) possesses terrific charcoal, scorched earth, blackberry, and cassis characteristics interwoven with notions of creosote, violets, and pepper. From pure schist soils, it possesses crisp underlying acidity as well as firm tannins, but the dominating characteristic is the amazing fruit and definition. Fashioned from lots culled out from all of David Ramey’s Cabernet projects, the 2005 Claret (88) is a stylish, delicious red that is meant to be consumed during its first 7-8 years of life. It offers up aromas of cherries, underbrush, black currants, and cedar. Evolved and medium-bodied with a silky finish, it will drink well for 5-7 years. The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa (91) exhibits a dense ruby/purple color as well as sweet, tarry, black currant, chocolate, cedar, and wood smoke-like flavors, and decent acidity. Drink it over the next 10-15 years. The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Larkmead Vineyard (91) (1,360 cases produced from a blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, and 9% Merlot) possesses abundant amounts of crème de cassis, graphite, cedar, roasted herbs, and spice. This is an attractive Cabernet that should drink well for 15-20 years. The final vintage for this cuvee, the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Jericho Canyon (95) offers a Graves-like personality of scorched earth, chocolate, charcoal, and black currants as well as a sumptuous, full-bodied palate, and a layered, multi-dimensional finish. Drink this remarkable Cabernet Sauvignon over the next two decades. Readers looking for a Screaming Eagle look-alike should check out David Ramey’s 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Pedregal (96) (85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Petit Verdot), a wine that has put on amazing richness and intensity since last year. Beautifully pure crème de cassis fruit interwoven with notions of spring flowers, espresso roast, and truffles jump from the glass of this wine. Wonderfully sweet, expansive fruit flavors, a massive, full-bodied palate, and superb elegance as well as purity suggest this stunner should drink well for 20-25+ years. The 2006 Claret (89-91) may turn out to be one of Ramey’s finest efforts. Licorice, cedar, spice box, and earth aromas are followed by a wine with exceptional richness and purity in addition to a silky texture. This opulent red appears to be Ramey’s version of a California Cabernet with a Pomerol-like personality. Drink it over the next decade. There are 11,000 cases of the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (91-94), an excellent effort that reveals broad notes of black currants, cedar, licorice, and underbrush. Its Bordeaux-like aromatic profile is accompanied by medium to full-bodied, lush flavors, and well-integrated acidity and tannin. It is a terrific Cabernet Sauvignon that should retail for under $50 a bottle. Moreover, it will age well for 10-15+ years. The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Larkmead Vineyard (92-94) offers a beautiful perfume of charcoal, black currants, licorice, and subtle pain grille. Medium to full-bodied and opulent with admirable density and long, heady fruit flavors, it should drink nicely for 15 or more years. A new offering with enormous potential is the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain (92-95). It exhibits a smoky, barbecue meatiness, scorched earth, and crème de cassis personality reminiscent of certain Cabernets from volcanic soils. With full-bodied power, a voluptuous mid-palate, and superb length as well as purity, this big, chewy, mountain Cabernet will easily keep for two decades. A potentially perfect wine in the making, the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Pedregal (96-100) is a co-fermented blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (88%) and Petit Verdot (12%). It boasts an inky/blue/purple color in addition to a gorgeous bouquet of black truffles, graphite, blackberries, cassis, acacia flowers, and hints of bay leaves, new saddle leather, and roasted meats. Sensationally concentrated, with a skyscraper-like intensity and a soaring flavor profile, this is a prodigious effort that should hit its apogee in 5-7 years and last for 25 or more. The Wine Advocate, 12-22-06, Issue 168, pages 31-32
David Ramey is building a substantial operation with his bevy of wines. Production seems to be growing to keep up with the enormous demand. To date he has been able to maintain an impeccable record of high quality despite adding more wines to the portfolio. Trained in France, he spent a stint with Christian Moueix both in Bordeaux and then later at Dominus, followed by time at Chalk Hill and Rudd. His impressive classical training in winemaking certainly shows, as his wines seem to represent an intelligent compromise between European terroir-based, more austere styles, and the opulent ripe fruit of California. | |||
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