2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Annum, Napa Valley
The Corkscrewer Report
Johannes Marlena and Ryan Koczara
David doesn’t apologize for the tannins in this Cab. The classicism in his winemaking philosophy is fully evident here, as you absolutely must wait, and wait a relatively long time (about 8-10 years from the vintage), for the Annum to fully evolve. In a world where on-demand and instant gratification is a way of life, this Cab could be called a throwback. Styled as a Pauillac (e.g. Pichon Baron, Lynch-Bages, Pontet Canet), there is great structure to this wine, and the hallmark flavor notes of Pauillac—blackberry, cassis, coffee, licorice, among others—are all here. There is rich density to the texture but also a soft touch. This isn’t a mere imitation of a great Bordeaux, but a unique California interpretation of one from a visionary winemaker.